Now since the Cruise I’ve listened to the Exhaust tracks from the videos. I mic’d the car in the back and I’m really unhappy with my current setup still. Now in the car you hear none of the rasp. That was fixed by turning the output of the muffler towards the back on the car with a factory like tailpipe.
The noise happens at about 3500 rpm and its a loud high pitch cracking/slapping noise that is completely out of place because the tone of the exhaust is quite low with the borla. So after a lot of research there are a few things I’m willing to try before completely tearing out my exhaust and redoing it (or maybe start my SC build)
I tried a homemade insert that mimics the mesh cones on the aftermarket. Most of the time put in the exhaust tips to kills the high tones. This didn’t do anything really. Probably because the holes are too large. I was hoping for the sound to bounce off the cone into the wall of the pipe.
The last thing I tried was just an experimental test for back pressure. I cut plates with descending size holes to put right behind the CAT. 2″, 1.5″, & 1″ holes. the 1.5 did a very small amount so i moved the to the 1″. You could tell there was back pressure do to the was it idled. It didn’t hinder the revving but the rasp didn’t go away or change much. So, I know this noise isn’t to do with back pressure. BTW I mic’d the exhaust and played it back with studio headphone in order to really be able to examine the sounds.
At the moment I’ve got an Auger style insert that has had mixed reviews. I’m hoping the blades will deaden the noise before it reaches the end. this is going to require me to cut out a section near the axle which needs to be 15″ of straight pipe to fit with a 3 in pipe and some reducers. After this I don’t know what I’ll do. Still on the search for something that makes a v6 with low rasp without going FI or something. I consider this a research project, so it will be a lot of trial and error.
I am having problems, I think, with injectors. my bank 1 is running really lean when I let off the pedal and the O2 sensor is all over the place. like its a misfire only there is way too much Oxygen passing by the sensor.
These Injectors are well past the 1/4 million mile mark. I think it’s time to upgrade anyway. Thanks To ChibiBlackSheep for hooking me up with a set of LSJ injectors that should be good enough for 300+ HP when I get to the SC build.
Not to mention it should boost my current setup a few HP just because there is now more fuel available.
This requires me to finally get my own tune on the car. I’m pretty excited about that. I’ve had HPtuners for a couple years it feels and I haven’t tuned anything on the car except for fixing a few irritations. Hopefully I’ll get to do that this weekend
Until then I may have to park the Car to avoid any damage for running lean. Luckily there are no codes yet so maybe I caught it early.
So, I got a package…
…inside of another package. Hmm…curious. The plot thickens.
I forgot to take photos of the contents. For now I’ll leave it here. 🙂
While I’m waiting for the stuff to arrive today, I received this. Chambered Exhaust “Powerstick”.
This will be the last ditch effort to make a good sounding exhaust for a single pipe setup.
According to the research I’ve done high pitched noise is not a pressure wave that can be canceled out with a “J-pipe”. The high pitched sounds travel along the walls of the pipe bouncing back and forth.
While the Y-pipe may cause a lot of this noise, getting rid of it has been unsuccessful thus far.
What I have done with my exhaust so far:
-Installed larger Borla XR1 muffler (No Cat) – ok but no CAT really makes it raspy (buzz). The muffler had a turn down right after it which made the exhaust loud inside the car. Drone was a little bit of a problem too.
-Installed High Flow CAT- helped Rasp (I always suggest installing a CAT for 2 reasons, 1. makes the rasp less and 2. makes the exhaust smell a little better)
-Cut out Pacesetter Y-pipe and welded in Magnaflow y-pipe – Made little to no difference to sound apart from the new y-pipe was thinner material so the sound resonates a little from the pipes.
-Cut off the turn down and welded in a factory like turn back – This was the biggest improvement to the sound from the driver seat. No rasp (buzz) heard and the drone was completely gone. Turn downs or “dumps” are bad for drone.
I still have the raspy buzz outside the car, as heard in recent posts. My hopes is this Powerstick does the trick. If so people can save a penny or 2 from a TD setup and Just add a 60-80$ powerstick. We shall see.
The reason I went with the Louvered design is because a Borla muffler is basically a perforated pipe with sound deadening material in the muffler. so since it doesn’t kill the high pitched noise i don’t see why another would. According to the spec, the only downside to this is 5% less flow, which in this model should be zero because the louvers are not less than the 2.25 pipe on the inside.
So back to the mystery package. It’s pretty obvious what it is but here is the final product.
Chibi sent me some 34# LSJ injectors he used on his CSC build before upgrading to bigger ones. Those were Multec 2 injectors where as my injectors are EV1 so I needed adapters. They came in yesterday.
I debated whether or not to try and do this in an afternoon because I had to have a way to work since my truck has a separated tire.
I was too excited about getting them in, so I did it anyway.
Working in this plenum is never fun.
And damn at all the vac lines you gotta take out. Damn you map sensor for being in the way!
So after about an hour or so, and taking the alternator off, the rail comes out…. almost. a little wiggling and it came out.
I really don’t know why I took it out because I had to put it right back in because the injectors had to come off before hand. and I had to put the rail in before I could put the injector on it anyway.
I guess I just needed a challenge.
Injector size up:
New injectors installed: I’m ready to button everything back up.
Goodbye old stockers!
Running! Had to make a few guesses on the injector flow because the first numbers I used didn’t play nice. I gotta tune it some more in order to get it right, but I drove to work today no problem. Now I gotta get that pipe installed.
(Edit: This isn’t exactly true. I fixed my “current flow” problem but not the cutting out issue. See later posts for problems around the voltage rpm cut off)
I fixed my alternator voltage problem. With summer coming up it’s going to be a problem running AC and fans with my alternator voltage dropping out when I’m idling
I Ordered this pulley from summit racing. It’s smaller than any stock GM pulley. It does the job too. I don’t drop voltage while idling at 650 anymore. There are times when I’m idle drops below 650 and the voltage needle with bounce low. but with AC, blower on max, and fans running it doesn’t struggle.
So since Bone make his Z setup look so damn good, I feel ashamed to call myself an audio enthusiast with my crap box. SO….. since there is a local small show coming up I’ve committed to ditching my spare so that I have room to fiberglass a factory looking enclosure on the passenger side for my 12in RF. then I can put my factory t-top holders back in for the factory look.
Yesterday I ordered all the fiberglass and resin as well as cut up the interior some lol.
This will be about the 8th version of a sub enclosure I’ve made for this car… and hopefully the last.
First order of business is to calculate the airspace….. I opted for the packing peanuts method.
1.35 cu ft:
and 1.35 cuft. so I have lots of space and can make it smaller if I need to
Cut up the interior panel:
I went ahead and ditch my ttop brackets that I made. They worked well just decided to go a different route.
Thanks to Jim…. I could no longer settle for the unfinished crap that’s in there.
Well, this weekend I might have something partly done with it.
This arrived this week.
I got bored yesterday and decided to clean up some decals.
My gathering sticker was getting rough.
I still managed to save it.
So long inspection sticker may I never see you again.
Now I have a Mystery Box. Let play that game “Guess what’s in the box.”
I’ll have to ask those who may know of this transaction to not give it away. LOL
Its a Powerdyne BD-11a and some other goodies
First thing’s first. I’m opening it up to double check everything. I’ll probably be upgrading the internals just to improve reliability. I’ll be ordering a few of the big supporting items as well including a ZZP NIC cam. The goal is to get this build done in under a year. I’m considering this my wedding gift to myself seeing as I’ll be tying the knot in the spring.